22 Juin 2017
Not even 48 hours after Virgil Abloh staged his men’s collection as a vast nighttime performance enhanced by artist Jenny Holzer projecting queasy, crisis poetry on the exterior of the Pitti Palace, the walk-through of the Resort offering took place at his Milan showroom. This may sound anticlimactic, and yet it was here that the founders of New Guards Group first took a leap of faith on a guy selling T-shirts that profoundly resonated with plugged-in kids (the Kanye connection didn’t hurt) and agreed to produce and distribute his higher-end fashion label. Now Abloh believes he’s arrived at Off-White 2.0. “It’s looking like a regular brand, but the ideas are all still underneath,” he explained.
And as though tapping into a terra incognita message, he titled the collection “Wilderness,” while nonetheless remaining controlled in his pursuit of well-developed womenswear. This included a blazer in a burlap-type fabric, its stiffness allowing tacked sleeves to appear permanently styled, and the unexpected use of a conventional floral print, which Abloh specially sourced near Como before having it turned into a cropped shirtdress and a workwear jacket, appropriating the Lawn-Boy logo. If the deconstructed and asymmetric men’s shirting came as no surprise, the femininity elsewhere did; then again, Off-White’s increasing presence on the red carpet has not gone unnoticed. Lace, as second-skin sheaths with or as contrast incrustations, was a pleasing sign that Abloh’s idea of pretty is not so different from everyone else’s.
But because he’s so hooked on stylized semantics, an “Off-White Pattern” printed on a solid draped dress put a figurative spin on your garden-variety floral. Compared to the grass skirt with its overgrowth of threads, this was clever. After the intensity of the men’s show—both the production and its message—an escape from the street was what everyone needed, surely delivering stuff that allows his brand to further grow.Read more at:http://www.marieprom.co.uk/cheap-prom-dresses-uk | http://www.marieprom.co.uk/cocktail-dresses-uk